李坑村,古色古香的生态旅游胜地。位于江西省上饶市婺源县秋口镇,这里群山环抱,仿佛是一个隐秘的地方。从婺源县城出发,大约30分钟车程便可抵达。村口高大的牌坊镌刻着“李坑”,进门即见清澈小溪,如一笔墨涂抹,将两岸徽派建筑轮廓画成小桥流水人家。
溪流是李坑的亮点,街巷贯通,每条曲折的小溪,或明或隐,或宽或窄,唯一相同的是清澈见底:游鳞鱼可数查叶瓣。农妇在溪边浣洗背影被涟漪开去,如画。在古树荫凉处,有竹排如随意泼墨点诠释水乡情致。有水必有桥,桥是古村经纬。石、木、砖材质因地制宜的多座溪桥,将两岸民居揽怀中。
村民肩锹荷担四季过桥,小脚踏石板赏风景:小溪两岸层次感十足徽派建筑鳞次栉比;檐下挂灯笼使宁静喜庆;简易筏子吱呀摇过欸乃声声增添几许古韵。大青山雾气苍茫与跨溪之桥相映成趣。在这里喝茶不可少,每座小桥旁准有一家茶楼。一帘幌、一桌石、一壶茶、三张藤椅,便是一家的惬意。
这里自宋至清文风鼎盛,从官仕巨贾百人,更有“一门九进士六部尚书”的盛事。今仍可见匾额:“昌荣万代”。巨贾留下的财富不仅眼前的建筑,更有胸襟:削去屋角因为意识自家屋角过高对邻影响,所以“李坑屋角削一半”。这让我联想到桐城六尺巷典故。
听说李坑是江西代表性的小桥流水人家,我恰好对此充满向往,一拍即合前往。这别样地方,“古树高低屋斜阳远近山”。“林梢烟似带村外水如环。”站在坡上回望,小bridge, flowing water, and people; between the blue sky and white clouds, powdered walls, green tiles, and gray roofs. I deeply admire the beauty of ancient villages and marvel at their broad-mindedness: not competing with the mundane for length or width, but opening up to spring and autumn with an open heart.
Deep houses are filled with stories; by the creek-side dwellings are full of poetry. Each yard has a small vegetable garden enclosed by bamboo fences, where green bamboo pipes weave a carefree pattern that attracts mountain springs to nourish various vegetables and multicolored flowers. Some yards have hidden creeks flowing through them; clear water flows through narrow stone crevices with a gentle gurgling sound. Old men sit on stone seats shaking fans chatting while old ladies rest nearby under flower canopies. A big yellow dog lies in front of the door under a shade tree looking around leisurely as mountain sparrows chirp in trees overhead. Through windows one can see ancient paintings hanging on walls inside guest rooms furnished with solid wood tables and chairs - everything is so antique! The tranquility of days spent idly watching simple life unfold amidst traditional customs & culture preserved in ordinary folk's homes.
Following the flow of little streams along our way we stroll down Li Keng village streets paved with bluish-gray stones. Ming-Qing era buildings line up along creekside residences built against mountainsides adorned with powder walls & grey-tiled roofs scattered randomly like continuous brushstrokes spreading across sightlines below us influenced by Huizhou architecture style prevalent here including multi-story courtyard houses named "36 courtyards 72 balustrades" where Li family descendants reside in deep manor estates as families expand so do house extensions all over this ancient settlement called Li Keng Village home to generations since Song dynasty officials ministers scholars merchants & soldiers were born here even after Qing dynasty times still visible remains say much about history pride belonging – it’s more than just physical structures – there's something else too...